The easiest way to describe gougères is to call them cheese puffs. Their dough, pâte àchoux, is the same one you’d use for sweet cream puffs or profiteroles, but when the pâte àchoux is destined to become gougères, you fold in a fair amount of grated cheese. In France, I use Gruyère, Comté, Emmenthal, or, just for fun and a spot of color, Mimolette, Gouda’s French cousin; in America, I reach for extra-sharp cheddar, and sometimes I add a little smoked cheese to the mix.